Late summer is when wasps become a problem. From about July in a busy year, and more often in August, they start trying to get into hives for the honey, and a weaker colony can be overwhelmed. Pressure usually eases from late September. Here is how to help your bees protect themselves, with advice from the National Bee Unit and from our members.
Make the entrance easier to guard
Fit an entrance block as soon as wasps appear. If robbing starts, reduce the entrance to a single bee width. Members use blocks, and even tape, to do this. It is also worth checking for small gaps that act as second entrances, and sealing them.
Keep colonies strong
Strong colonies defend themselves best. If a colony is small, take off any supers it isn’t using so the bees have less to guard. Uniting weak colonies in late summer can help, but check each one for disease first.
Take care when feeding
Spilt syrup and honey attract wasps. Feed in the late evening and wipe up spills. Some beekeepers find fondant causes less robbing than syrup.
What about traps?
Views differ. The National Bee Unit does not recommend wasp traps, as they are unlikely to be effective and can kill other insects. One of our members found that traps placed under the hive stand caught dozens of wasps, while the same traps set further away did nothing. If you try one, the bait matters more than the trap. Whatever you decide, protecting the entrance comes first.
Is it really a wasp?
Plenty of insects look like wasps. A hoverfly that mimics a hornet has only one pair of wings. If you ever see what you think is a yellow-legged hornet, take a photo if it is safe to do so and report it through the Asian Hornet Watch app. Our hornet page explains what to look for.
The National Bee Unit also has a helpful fact sheet on wasps.